Making a Quick and Simple “Stop” for Multiple Cuts

When I’m cutting a lot of boards the same length and angle, it doesn’t make sense to measure each time, or mark multiple cuts along a single board. Employing a block stop system is not only efficient, it also allows the boss to set up a cut and turn someone loose on the task who knows how to safely run the saw and won’t have to worry about careful measuring.

quickstop1Use scrap wood – 2 pieces of 2x material + a piece of 3/4” material (plus whatever needed) to create a support base that is at the same level as the cutoff saw’s base. In this photo a layer of cardboard was used under the 3/4” material to obtain the right level.

quickstop5Check that the base of the saw is at the same level as the support base.

quickstop2Secure the cutoff saw to the worktable. Then square up one end of a board and mark it for your proper length to be cut multiple times, creating your set-up board.

Lay the set-up board so the length mark is directly under the blade. Center the support base under the other end. Fasten both 2x scraps down securely to the work table. Leave the 3/4” scrap loose for now.

quickstop3Nick the set-up board with the blade at the length mark. No need to cut it to length, you might have a use for it elsewhere.

quickstop4Keeping the set-up board held securely, flush edges with the 3/4” scrap. Pencil mark the 2x support base.

quickstop9Fasten the 3/4” scrap to the 2x support base at your pencil mark: the end of this board is your stop length.

quickstop8Use a straight cut scrap to flush the 3/4” stop board edge with the board to be cut. Start cutting! If you are cutting angles, just make sure the top of the angle hits the stop block. Otherwise you risk undermining.

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Thanks for stopping by! Be sure to check out our suspension bridge book. Here is the link:

Building a Small Cable Suspension Bridge with the Cable Locking System

Images, diagrams, and text copyright 2013-2017 by Marvin Denmark unless otherwise noted. Please do not copy and post my content anywhere without my permission. Thank you.

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Adjusting a Suspension Bridge Deck

One of the hazards of building a bridge in the woods is that there are trees in the woods. And trees sometimes fall. It was only a couple of weeks after my bridge was completed that a tree fell on it. It bounced off without causing damage other than a dent in a deck board.

A couple of years ago during a flood, a tree next to the bridge came down, and while not actually falling on the bridge, parts leaned heavily on the suspension cable. I cut off the branches that were in our way and let the rest stay for now since I was busy with other projects. This spring I finally cut the rest of the tree that was affecting the bridge cable. I knew that the deck had sagged a bit and would need to be adjusted at some point.

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That’s why I have turnbuckles installed on all the deadman-to-post cable connections as shown in my book, Building a Small Cable Suspension Bridge. I could just turn them to pull the posts back and level out the deck again.

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I used  what was handy to provide a resistance (something to work against) to turning the turnbuckle – in this case a big stick and a metal pipe.

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WD40 oil worked to loosen up the connections. They weren’t rusty having been protected under the cover of those white tubes all these years, but they didn’t want to break loose easily.

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I used a small bar for turning, but a longer one could have made things easier.

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I used a pencil mark to verify if I was tightening or loosening.

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Once they broke loose, each turnbuckle turned easily.

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Jeep seemed amused that one side was now lower than the other. But that’s just part of the process!

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I worked on all four turnbuckles, using line of sight to achieve the results I wanted.

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All done, until the next tree takes a dive into the creek and the bridge is in its way.

This all only took about 30 minutes. Here’s a movie of the process if you’ve never seen a turnbuckle in action.

Thanks for stopping by! Be sure to check out our suspension bridge book. Here is the link:

Building a Small Cable Suspension Bridge with the Cable Locking System

Images, diagrams, and text copyright 2013-2017 by Marvin Denmark unless otherwise noted. Please do not copy and post my content anywhere without my permission. Thank you.

Deter deer with kinetic art

FenceTurtlesThis just in from my spousal unit: Just about anyone who gardens has contended with all kinds of critter invasions. Over the years we’ve dealt with rabbits, squirrels, cats (ours), and worst of all, deer and elk. We tried electric wire fencing and the deer soon learned to just jump through it, since they have to be grounded to get shocked. Finally an elk tore it all down and we started over.

We used 50″X16’ hog panels for the bottom and cobbled together a top system using concrete reinforcement wire we had around. After twenty years, the wood has deteriorated to the point that the panels are falling apart. I ripped down the bad parts and replaced them with two wires – one about two inches from the top of the rail and one level with where the top system used to be.

I noticed neighbors doing something like this and then hung up CDs or DVDs, which spun around and apparently spooked away the deer. It seemed like a great idea, but not very attractive. So I decided to use shapes, and turtles seemed like something fun (see previous post about our turtle haven). Here is my how-to. I noticed other metal art projects tell people they need a grinder or band saw, but I just used metal shears and old aluminum siding.

Turtles1I suspect you could find aluminum panels at a scrap yard. We had some that were ripped off a building.

Turtles2Turtle pattern was printed out in a couple of sizes. This is the biggest one.

Turtles3 The trick to cutting is to having one side up or one down. Metal won’t cut flat when using cutters.

Turtles4Trace the pattern with pencil or chalk.

Turtles5Ready to cut!

Turtles6Work carefully. Wear gloves to be on the safe side. I don’t.

Turtles7Scrap your metal bits and recycle them.Turtles8Here’s a gang of turtles.Turtles9Drill holes top and bottom, a ruler helps if you can’t visualize perpendicular or you’re pickier than I am.Turtles10Got holes, ready for hangers and beads!Turtles11I bought these ring things but a big jump ring would work, or make your own. Turtles12I decided to add beads, because I had them. I doubt that the deer will be impressed. Fishing line is tied on, long enough lengths to place them wherever you decide between the two wires.Turtles13Here’s how to tie on the bottom beads so they don’t fall off!

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I cut the fishing line on-site and tied both ends to swivel fishing hooks. Then I tied wire to the bottoms to keep them from sliding around.

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TurtlesAllDoneKinetic art is fun to watch, and so far Bambi and his gang haven’t come near them. If you want to see one in action, check out the YouTube Video:

Thanks for stopping by! Be sure to check out our suspension bridge book. Here is the link:

Building a Small Cable Suspension Bridge with the Cable Locking System

Images, diagrams, and text copyright 2013-2017 by Marvin Denmark unless otherwise noted. Please do not copy and post my content anywhere without my permission. Thank you.